When the author, Peter Mayle, first arrived in Provence, France, he never dreamed he would find exceptional eating experiences in the most remote old restaurants.  But he did! Often, the menu didn't exist - Peter ate whatever the chef was cooking that day. No choice of menu, but exquisite food to rival the best Michelin establishments.

Just when you think such finds will never be your own, around a corner in a rural region of Croatia, a similar secret is unlocked and what a marvellous experience, right from the moment you push open the gate of the courtyard.

That is why I have been to the Konoba Milena several times. It is in a fairly remote part of Istria, north-west Croatia, overlooking the incredibly diverse wine-growing area of the Myrna Valley, where vineyards seem to trip over each other. For centuries this Valley provided the Romans, and the later Venetian rulers, with the finest wines in the then known world. Today, many wines can still rival the best-known in the world.

The Milena restaurant was a farmhouse until it was turned into an eatery of distinction. Before the sad wars late in the last century, the restaurant was famous throughout the country because of its courtyard wall. Built entirely of used wine bottles, in the sunshine it sparkles like hundreds of jewels! Coach-loads came to admire it, and so the fame of the restaurant spread. The war, however, almost closed the place. Now, Dorde is rebuilding his fame, and the bottles still shine.

On my first visit, as guests of a local villa-owner, I was greeted by the young restauranteur, Dorde Stefanov, wearing a long white apron. Though we had not yet met each other, he wrapped his arms warmly around me, gave a hug and a broad smile: Welcome!. I can't quite remember the last time I was greeted like that at any other restaurant, or even by my own family! And, better, it was not yet open. But, because we were there, Dorde opened specially for us. Now that's service!

He was truly pleased to see us, as we chose to sit outside in the sun-drenched courtyard, overlooking the valley and fields. In the garden was a traditional stone roundhouse built by Dorde. Chickens ran around and other small animals came in and out of view when they felt like it.

We started with an olive salad, sliced meats and cold beer - everything was absolutely fresh and local, including the beer. I discovered that Istrian restaurants only used fresh, seasonal ingredients, and everything, from lettuce to olives to meat, was naturally organic. No additives. No chemicals. No colourings. And the best thing of all, locals eat there.

My villa host's wife, who suffers wheat allergy, told me that when she is in Istria she can eat any of the luscious breads without worry, because they were fresh, natural, baked on the premises or locally. The beers and wines are also organic, with no additives (as they would have been known to the Romans), so you don't get a hangover in the morning!

Before we had our main meal, my host, a food and wine buff, said British and American fine foods are far too sophisticated. In Croatia, the food is just as wonderful, but is unsophisticated and uncomplicated. So, I wondered how I would take to Istrian traditional cooking. I didn't have long to wait.

We finished our starters and were then invited into the restaurant by Dorde, who led us to a table he had specially laid in the second of only two rooms. All the while he exuded an infectious air of welcome and enthusiasm. The first room is larger, but this one was more intimate, with great views through a large window. On the walls are old farm tools and other equipment from his own farm. In the corner is a traditional ancient wood stove with blackened overhanging chimney, which is still used occasionally for cooking.

In came the first wine. Dorde always opens and tastes the first sips, to make sure the wine is acceptable. Only if he is satisfied does he pass a taster-glass to his customer. There is an amazing variety of wines in Istria, and the ones we had were from nearby vineyards, some of which have award-winning wines.

My host telephoned Dorde the evening before, to say we were coming, and asked if we could have suckling pig with potatoes, accompanied by crusty bread, and pasta with truffles. No problem! By the time we finished the soft white wine, the meal was ready. Dorde swept in grandly, carrying a huge server plate covered with pork simply torn into chunks, potatoes, cabbage, and other things I did not recognise. A separate large plate contained the pasta, truffles and wild asparagus. With plenty of crusty bread. This is Konoba food at its best: local fresh produce, cooked traditionally, with local wines and olive oils.

Most places give a minor sprinkle of truffle shavings, but Dorde just piled it on. The suckling pig was culled that morning, just for us, and all the other ingredients were equally fresh. As the evening wore on, fine wines came and went, food was devoured at a fast rate of knots.

The whole atmosphere was one of happiness, even amongst customers in the next room. Dorde was a wonderfully friendly and informative host and did not appear without a broad smile on his face. Then, when the last of the food disappeared, he brought out the infamous complimentary glass of grappa, so strong it should be behind barbed-wire!

Dorde also makes his own goat cheeses and dried white cod, an Istrian delicacy. And if you don't want what is on offer, he will make you something else so long as it's in the kitchen. The whole family peel the potatoes by hand, and everyone is involved in serving, including Dorde's delightful wife. One eater said "The food is out of this world, and you get fine wines at table-wine prices." You can even pre-order something special.

An added bonus is that the Milena also has farm-house accommodation for rent, and, if they want to, customers can help in the mornings to feed the chickens and other small animals. And if you fancy it, you can go with Dorde (said George) to see what you can find for dinner, using a shotgun. Truly, this is a traditional restaurant with flair, set in a rural area that hasn't changed for centuries. It is near a small village off the beaten track, but Dorde can send travel instructions if needed. Go on, try it, it is worth it just for his friendly smile!

April 2008. Barry Napier
barry.napier@ntlworld.com
Hotel and Travel Journalist

Contacts:
Email: milena@pu.htnet.hr Tel: +385 52 449 353 Fax: +385 52 427 696
Mail: Konoba Milena, 52463 Visnjan, Bacva 3, Istria
Website: www.milena.hr