I was eating in one of my favourite Istrian Konobas - 'Konobas Milena' (a Konoba cooks traditional meals using local fresh produce and wines). My fellow guest asked the chef about the marvellous 'Ravalico' wine, which we had not tasted on previous visits.
He pointed to a young couple behind us: "There's the owner of the vineyard" After a brief chat, I arranged to visit his vineyard the next day. You don't get interviews with top vintners that easily in California or France!
Bruno, a lively, friendly young man, ran the winery with his brother, Gianni, and father, Roberto. An established fifth-generation vineyard, it is the second biggest supplier in Croatia. But, in terms of wine and olive oil quality, it is one of the best. Before Yugoslavia suffered a recent war, the vineyard was the best in the entire country.
Today, it is still the best, with super-appellation, because the wines are the some of the best in the world. But that is where we come across a problem ¡V for Croatian wines are not exported, due to the excruciatingly complex paperwork and laws imposed by central government. The only way you can taste the delights of Ravalico is to actually visit Croatia!
There are vineyards everywhere in Croatia, and a concentration of countless small ones in Istria. Drive down any Istrian road (or track) and you will find a sign offering the fearsome Grappa, a form of instant wine intoxication!
The Ravalico estate is one of the largest, with 39 hectares; its wines are acknowledged to be some of the best in the world. The bottling building is like a shrine to certificates: hundreds of awards from a variety of countries cover every wall! Tours often have this vineyard on their itinerary.
Istrians are welcoming and very friendly. Though he does not speak English, Bruno and I got on fine and managed to converse well using broken English and guesswork!
In the old vat room were large green-coloured barrels, stainless-steel covered years ago in cement to help with temperature. In other rooms were the usual tall stainless steel vats. But, whatever the wines were kept in, they all tasted superb, without exception.
In the large tasting room we were liberally plied with each type of wine made at Ravilico finishing maybe half a dozen bottles of the best Istria can produce! And then came a gracious present: three bottles of the most amazing Muscat I have ever tasted. At first I thought it would be a normal glass. But, the actual taste was something I was not prepared for. Though the nose was quiet, the actual taste blew my socks off! It hit my palate like a soft-cushion bomb, with amazing intensity.
All wines in Istria are natural (organic in todays language). There are no additives, colours or chemicals. This means you get the proper taste with no nasty after-effects, so you get nothing nasty the next morning.
Ravalico produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Malvasia, Merlot, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, high-octane Grappa, and the one that gently but firmly reorganised my taste buds, Bijeli Muscat. It is hard to describe - semi-sweet on the tongue with a sudden burst of amazing taste you do not expect, and no rough edges. As with most Istrian wines, it has an oddly precise alcohol percentage; in this case (this year), 10.7%.
One wine website quotes an old saying from communist times: The Istrians are good winegrowers and bad wine makers! It is true that under communism wineries lost their fervour and quality. However, the writer does mention that, for many centuries, Istria was the most famous wine area in the known world. Almost all of Istria was given over to vineyards of renown.
Today, though most wineries are ordinary and reasonably good, Ravalico is right at the top of the vine, consistently producing some of the best wines you will ever taste. And their olive oils are equally fine. Ravalico wins award after award in many countries. Once Croatia eases up on its weird paperwork, perhaps you can indulge in Ravalico delights by export!
The Ravalico family spurn oak barriques and make a Malvasia of extremely high quality with clean acidity, a surprisingly expressive nose and a full and satisfying palate. Even more impressive is their Pinot Grigio, which for depth of flavour and complexity, puts most Italian ones to shame.(Greville Havenhand, Wine on the Web, February 2007). I can readily add the Muscat to his quote. Right now a bottle of it sits resplendent in my fridge. Once I drink it, I will have to revisit Istria again for another bottle? Do I drink it anyway, or not? Answers on a postcard, please!
I had better stop. After all, I have just come back from Istria and tasted the most amazing wines. And, as I have said, unless you go to Istria yourself, you won't be able to have any. Sorry again!
2008 April. Barry Napier
barry.napier@ntlworld.com
Hotel and Travel Journalist
Contact: (Appointment required)
Ravalico F&F
Nova Vas 101
52474 Brtonigla
Istria
Tel: +385 (0)52 774 150
Fax: +385 (0)52 774 152
