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The Demise of the $175 Steak.
By Brad Nelson.
Tuesday, 14th October 2008
 
There are lots of worried bulls out there, though I am not referring to the bulls on Wall Street - the steakhouse bulls are under pressure too.

Years of incredible growth in steakhouses have coincided with amazing options of specialty beef and designer steaks. The pinnacle of the elite meats has undoubtedly been Wagyu, the same breed known as Kobe, made famous by the Japanese and prized for its incredible marbling. Beer diets and sake massages only added to the allure of this impressive meat. Only a tiny fraction of TRUE Kobe beef ever leaves Japan.

There, Kobe beef is never eaten as a huge steak. Instead, it is typically sliced paper thin, quickly seared in Kobe fat and finished as Sukiyaki in traditional broth. Over the last 15 years, many US and Australian ranchers have been raising and bringing to market "Kobe style" beef, rich flavor, tender unlike any other. So much fat and marbling, a typical Kobe New York steak almost looks like a slab of pink tinged butter. So special they are often sold by the ounce. When steaks are like caviar, I fear we have hit a market top.

The market is now changing rapidly, and Wagyu ranchers are worried that the economy is causing a repricing of steak value.  I expect to see more Kobe beef offered at better prices as ranchers cut their herds, flooding the market in the short term.  Kobe beef is great, but at double the price of Prime?  Not in my opinion, and it appears consumers are in agreement.

Steakhouses aren't going anywhere, and in fact a stressed economy drives customers out of less defined restaurants and into more "sure thing" dining choices. A great steak is expected, but side dishes and sauced are how a steakhouse is judged today.  Sides are no longer just creamed spinach and au gratin potatoes. Button mushrooms have been replaced by an ever changing list of foraged wild mushrooms, season correct risottos, artisan cheese au gratin potatoes, and the classic French fry seasoned with specialty sea salts.

Other top sides I have seen lately:

  • Blue cheese tater tots
  • Black sesame crusted green beans
  • White beans and escarole
  • Lobster and chorizo hash
  • Killer parmesan gnocchi
  • Ginger roasted carrot
  • Green curry battered onion rings
  • Salt roasted tomatoes on the vine
Great beef is on my plate today..what's on yours?

Brad Nelson is the vice president culinary and corporate chef of Marriott International, he has worked to build an international culinary team that continues to raise the bar in dining. He takes his respect for nature's simple, clean flavors and instill it into the philosophy of the numerous kitchens he oversees. www.chefblog.marriott.com/aboutBrad
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