I first visited Siem Reap circa 1995 when it had just opened to international tourism and then, the best way to appreciate the scale and grandeur of the Angkor temples was by aerial view from a military helicopter because going by foot was still hazardous due to landmines and snakes.

There were very few visitors then, only the intrepid, mostly from Europe and the US.

This visit, made possible after Cambodia reopened its borders with the lightest entry conditions among South-east Asian countries and a Vaccinated Travel Lane with Singapore, felt a bit like the return to those days – a quieter Siem Reap with very few visitors, only the intrepid and opportunistic like me who want to experience this special place before the return of mass tourism and in a selfish way, hoping those days do not return to the way it was.

And I don’t think I am alone in wanting a return to slower, better and more sustainable travel for a destination like Cambodia.

The hidden faces of Ta Phrom

Those in the industry, as much as they have suffered and struggled these past two years and, as much as they are welcoming back travellers with open arms (even circus performances by Phare Cambodian Circus at the airport), are desiring change because they feel Cambodia deserves better.

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