Sydney has forged its way into the big league in dining - in the past twenty years the dining scene has gradually picked up momentum to the point where it is now one of the world's top cities for interesting, exciting, leading edge dining experiences.

But where to eat, what to see, where to stay and what to drink? We have put together our foodtourist.com recommendations of the best restaurants, best hotels, best cafes, best bars, best wines and best attractions to save you time and ensure your stay is a pleasant one. 

There are plenty of good places to stay. The city now boasts a W Hotel. There are the perennial favourites of the Westin and the Observatory Hotel, trendy new places such as the Medusa and the Kirketon or mega-trendy places such as the mooghotel in Bourke St, Surry Hills. 

In Sydney you can sample some of the best restaurants in the world! Tetsuya's, Rockpool, Sailors Thai, Quay, Claudes, Longrain and Bistro Moncur all provide wonderful dining experiences. But be warned! Many of the restaurants are extremely popular and you will need to book well in advance. 

You can also see wonderful sights such as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, Darling Harbour, the Powerhouse Museum and Manly and Bondi beaches. We have divided the feature into the following sections. Click on one to read more! 

Arriving

The Kingsford Smith airport in Sydney is large and very busy by Australian standards. The International terminal and the domestic terminals lie on opposite sides of the airfield so there are some hassles in moving from one to the other, although an internal shuttle bus is available to take you across the field at regular intervals. Both terminals are only a short 15 kilometres from the CBD. 

If it is raining on a Friday night you might have a lengthy wait for a taxi as they tend to go missing when you need them the most.  

The domestic terminal now has a train station where you can catch an Airport Link train straight to the centre of the city for less than the cost of a taxi (it is currently $AU10). They run every fifteen minutes during the day. The train service is a Claytons solution, however. It is just one of the tired old regular commuter trains that swings past the airport on its way into the city. You will have a problem, therefore, if you have a lot of luggage because there is absolutely no provision made for it. You might also have to negotiate escalators or stairs when you arrive at either Central or Town Hall. The good news, however, is that the journey only takes about ten to twelve minutes (particularly recommended during peak hours as the traffic to the airport can be unpredictable).

Hotels

There is now an adequate provision of accommodation in Sydney ranging from the super luxurious, to the quietly elegant, to the outrageously trendy to the comfortably spacious. If you want to indulge yourself at the top end of the market we recommend the Westin at the GPO in the centre of the city. If your taste runs to the quietly elegant then the Observatory Hotel in Kent Street in the Rocks area is the choice of many discriminating travellers. It doesn't look much from the outside, but inside it is an oasis of calm and elegance. 

The Kirketon in Darlinghurst is one of the cutting edge 'designer' hotels that ensure that you will not lose any cachet among your friends when you discuss your itinerary. Its nearby sister the Medusa is similarly trendy. If you want to join the global trend then the W Hotel in the architecturally unlovely Wooloomooloo Wharf development is the place to be seen. We like space as well as comfort and are not too fussed about whether where we stay has a high 'trend' quotient or not. Therefore we stay in apartments such as the Medina Grand Apartments in Kent Street or the brand new one in Darling Harbour. The Medina at Central is also very well located in a beautiful old sandstone building. 

Restaurants

In the past five years Sydney has been catapulted into international recognition for the quality of its restaurants. It now stands head and shoulders above any other city in Australia and can match San Francisco and Paris for the sheer quality of the produce and the inspiration of the chefs.

Whenever we have been away from Sydney for more than a couple of weeks, we start to crave the food at the Sailors Thai Canteen. This is a true treasure and a must-visit place whenever you are in the harbour city. Conveniently located in George Street in the Rocks, this single-table venue serves some of the most authentic and delicious Thai food that you will find anywhere in the world. It is cheap, cheerful and wonderful. Don't be put off by the thought of sharing the long table with others. There is always a lot of regulars who understand the rules. They will leave you alone if you want to dine quietly and they will let you join in the conversation if you send out the signals. If two of you are dining, order three dishes and share. 

At the top end of the market you have some real treasures. Tetsuya's is an absolute must for food fanatics. Here you will find some of the most intelligent combinations of flavours and textures that you will see in any restaurant in the world. Tetsuya Wakuda has built a reputation that ranks him alongside the world's greats.

Another favourite is Rockpool. Neil Perry has not dominated the Sydney restaurant scene for almost fifteen years by accident. Not only is he a talented chef, he also a discerning eye for talent in his kitchens and sources the very best produce. The fish here is always so fresh that it is breathtaking. Some of the combinations of flavours and textures on offer are surprising yet delightful. He understands Indian flavours and is one of the few chefs who can combine an oxtail jus with a delicate lobster ravioli and leave you wanting to try the dish again and again. 

Another great place to try in the Rocks area is Quay. This has quietly become one of the leading restaurants in Sydney where the food is clever, enticing and comforting.

If you want to go downmarket a bit then a place that is well-worth a visit is BBQ King in Chinatown. This is the place that inspired a generation of chefs (including Neil Perry) and instilled a love of roast duck. It is chaotic here. Room after room of noisy diners enjoying some of the best roast pork and roast duck you are likely to find anywhere. 

If you want to treat yourself to lunch in a stunning setting then head for Balmoral Beach and the restored and enhanced Bathers Pavilion. Now under the watchful eye of Serge Danserau, the food here is based on the best products available and matches the relaxed, beach atmosphere. 

For lovers of French food there is a real gem in Sydney. Head for Woollahra and join the queue at Bistro Moncur. Here you will experience some of the best provincial food this side of Lyon. For lovers of offal this should be your first stop in Sydney! Most visitors want to check out Harry's Café de Wheels in Woolloomooloo. Take a photo and then walk along the city side of the new wharf development and grab a table at Otto Ristorante. If you are in the Bondi area then Icebergs is a must!  

Other places to consider are Omega in the city where there is truly some wonderful Greek-inspired food on offer, and Longrain in Surry Hills for great Thai food in ultra-trendy surroundings.

Cafes

You are not allowed to visit Sydney without having breakfast at bills in Darlinghurst. This cafe makes the best scrambled eggs on the planet and the coffee and orange juice are also exceptional. You might have to wait, but it is well worth it. 

Two secrets that we will share with you sit side-by-side in a basement behind the Haymarket area. Cho Dumpling King and the Chinese Noodle Restaurant both serve delicious Chinese food at lunch time that is hard to beat for quality or price. You will have to queue, however. 

Foodies like nothing better than wandering down 'eat streets' gazing in to restaurants, wandering along the aisles of food stores, grazing at cafes and sipping the latest artisan-crafted pastis in a trendy bar. A favourite pastime of ours is to wander along Crown Street in Surry Hills. Start near the Medina on Crown where you will find Billy Kwong (an exciting Asian eatery), Marque for refined French cuisine and bills 2 for breakfast.

Of course, if you are a food fanatic you should not miss visiting one of the Simon Johnson food stores in either Woollahra or Ultimo. Some of the best food products in the world are available here.

Bars

When you are wandering around the Rocks, take the time to walk up Argyle Street because another world will open up to you. Walk under the road leading on to the bridge, past the small park and you will be at the intersection with Kent St. Here there are many workers cottages saved from the vandal developers by the famous 'Green Bans'. On the opposite corner you will see the Lord Nelson Hotel. This is a great place for a drink. They are famous for their range of brewed beers. 

If you like a view when having a drink, try the Water Bar in the W Hotel. and don't forget there is a great bar with good snacks at Longrain. Another popular bar, Fix, is hidden behind trendy Salt at 229 Darlinghurst Road.

Wines

Now, which wines and other drinks should you particularly look out for while you are in Sydney? Obviously wine appreciation is very personal, but we will tell you about the wines we like and why we like them and then you be the judge. 

We have to admit up front however that we are not great fans of huge wines matched with food. Our bias is towards Burgundy rather than Bordeaux. Within Burgundy our bias is towards the delicate Chambolle-Musigny wines rather than the some of the more recent Burgundies that are being produced to appeal to the forward palates of the United States. Having said all that, all wine lovers should take home with them at least one bottle of the famous Penfold's Grange to see what a massive shiraz is really like. It truly deserves its place among the world's great wines. Also in this category is the luscious Henschke Hill of Grace.

If you can't afford either of these then their cheaper siblings might be worth a try. The Penfolds Bin 389 and the Henschke Mount Edelstone are both worthy wines in their own right. Once you have put that carefully out of the way, explore some of our Pinot Noir examples. Try the Bass Phillip from Victoria for a fine Burgundian-style wine, the rich Bannockburn Pinot (even better, seek out the Serre) from Geelong or the classically elegant Mount Mary Pinot from the wonderful Yarra Valley. For even cooler climate examples you might try a Tasmanian pinot such as the clinically pure Domaine A, the gutsy Freycinet or the sensational 1994 Rotherhythe. 

While we are on the topic of reds let's explore one of Australia's real treasures - the bold and assertive shiraz. There are wonderful examples from many regions, but the McLaren Vale produces some of the finest. For a quintessentially Australian example, you can't go past the Coriole Shiraz produced from exceptionally old vines. This is a wonderful wine at an amazingly reasonable price. For a slightly more upmarket example from the same manufacturer, the Lloyd Reserve Shiraz is a refined, gracious wine that ages into a charming companion. We have always been great fans of the underrated Great Western region of Victoria. To see what we mean, seek out a bottle of the Bests Great Western Shiraz (particularly if you can find the 1994 or 1995). Another Victorian worth a try is the Wendouree. If you are on an economy drive because your Olympic tickets drained your finances then try the lovely Wynns Shiraz. At little over $AU10 it is one of the great wine bargains of the world. 

We have already admitted that Cabernet does not always excite us. We have tried too many unripe examples. However, there are some that are worth a look. Try the Lindemann's St George, the Lakes Folly from the Hunter Valley or the Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon from the Coonawarra region. But if you don't mind a blended wine there is an absolute knock-out example from West Australia. The first sip we had of the Cullens 1995 Cabernet Merlot was a life changing experience. This is a wine that turns you into a grubby collector willing to go to any lengths including trampling over the weak to source a bottle of this precious booty. If your taste leans to chardonnay then there are four that define the range of Australian offerings. Giaconda from Victoria, Petaluma Tiers from South Australia, Penfolds Yattarna (also from South Australia) and Leeuwin Estate Art Series from the Margaret River in West Australia are all expensive and stunning. Our preference, however, is for the delicate Giaconda. 

If you think that Germany or the Alsace region are the only ones who can produce a decent Riesling then try some of our piercingly flinty, dry, full-fruit offerings, particularly those from the Clare Valley in South Australia. You won't find better than the Grosset Polish Hill or some of the old Leo Buring rieslings. There are good examples produced in other regions including the Howard Park from West Australia and Pipers Brook from Tasmania. For something very different swing your gaze to the dry Hunter Valley in New South Wales and savor a Semillon. The Tyrells Vat 1 Semillon is a fascinating wine of great character and charm. If you want a bargain, then the McWilliams Mount Pleasant Semillon is a wine of great complexity that is severely underpriced given the quality. To finish your meal there are some great sticky wines but our preference runs to the luscious tokays and muscats from the Rutherglen region. Most people will recommend the De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon as the best sweet white available. While we acknowledge the technical excellence with which it is made we would prefer a wine that showed more balance. So try the Chambers Rosewood Rare Muscat from Rutherglen instead and you will be drinking liquid gold!

Sightseeing

There are many wonderful sites to see and places to visit in Sydney. Of course, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House are high on anyone's must-do list. But you can find out a lot more by dropping in to the Sydney Visitor Centre at 106 George Street in the Rocks. A visit to the wonderful zoo should not be overlooked (we visit on the way back from the Bathers Pavilion).

If you catch the ferry over from Circular Quay, we would recommend that you catch the Sky Safari to the top entrance and then enjoy the walk back down the hill. It is a good way to get oriented and saves the trudge up the hill. But there are also many other interesting activities. Rather than paying for a harbour cruise and a disappointing lunch on board, why not catch the regular ferry service to Manly and then eat at one of the many local restaurants. Heading in the opposite direction, the Sydney Fish Market has become one of the most popular venues for visitors. They love to watch the fish auctions and to wander past the stunning retail shops displaying an amazing variety of snappingly fresh fish and crustaceans.

If you happen to be fit and not afraid of heights, then an increasingly popular pastime is to take the guided tour up the narrow catwalks to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Be warned that you must book for this tour. Another of our favourite venues is Sydney's PowerHouse museum. This is particularly strong on science and technology but also includes displays of decorative arts and some fascinating displays of aboriginal culture. Make sure you see the model of the Strasbourg Cathedral clock and the amazing Catalina flying boat.

Take the regular commuter train to the Blue Mountains and stroll around lovely Leura. You might also duck into the Leura Cellars to see if you can find any treasures downstairs. If you are in the Blue Mountains on the right day then you can book into one of the most interesting restaurants in the country. Vulcans at Blackheath is special. Chef Phillip Searle weaves his special magic using a wood fired bakers oven. We still fondly remember a dish of braised brisket we were served here in the mid-nineties that was a symphony of flavours. A recent visit confirmed that it is still as good as ever!

Make sure that you don't miss visiting the Queen Victoria Building in the city. It has been restored to its former glory and now offers an array of shopping experiences. We like to sit at one of the great cafes on the concourse, sip a coffee and watch the action. If shopping is your thing you might also like to wander along Castlereagh St in the city centre to see the upmarket designer shops.

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