Wardrobe wisdom for women, dressing for success is not a new concept. Most business professionals  recognize that the expression, "You don't get a second chance to make a first impression" is true. The simple fact is that in and out of the business world, people are judged on their wardrobe. The clothing you wear can have an adverse affect on your career.  

Women have a particularly hard time – with more business clothing options, comes more opportunities to make fashion mistakes. As Dolly Parton said, "It costs a lot to look this cheap."

Perceived Image Is Everything 
The image you present should make your prospects and clients feel comfortable with who you are. Often you will be working in their offices, interfacing with their company personnel. There are three areas of professional presence; the "three V's": Visual, Vocal, Verbal. They are the communication signals we send to other people. The visual is what we look at:  dress, body language, facial expression. The vocal is your voice. The verbal is the words you choose. 

What is most interesting is that these three signals are far from equally weighted. The visual component has the most initial impact. Think of it as the packaging. Would you buy a bar of soap that has the wrapper torn? Remember that the next time you are dressing for a sales call.

How you look can color what people hear you saying. Here are 10 overall guidelines for women putting together their professional wardrobe and paying attention to grooming details:

• Never wear low cut or sexy garments (watch skirt lengths so you aren't uncomfortable when seated)
• Never wear anything too frilly or girlish (look professional)
• Always check stockings for runs (carry an extra pair)
• Always hide slip and bra straps (do a full-length mirror check)
• Avoid designer labels that show
• Limit jewelry; nothing noisy or dangling
• If you do polish your nails, it should be fresh polish, not chipped, and avoid overly long nails
• Keep lipstick blotted (and not on teeth)
• Limit makeup (this includes perfume)
• Make sure you have no visible facial hairs
• Keep your clothing clean and well-pressed
• Make sure that your clothes fit. If your body changes, so should the clothes
• Keep your shoes polished and make sure the heels and soles are in good condition
• Wear clean eyeglasses; never wear sunglasses or tinted glasses indoors

Basic Business Wardrobe 
Do your clothes help you project the image you want? Each person should develop a style that reflects his or her own personality and individual taste.

There are two basic styles of professional clothing for women:

• The skirt suit or pantsuit. This should be the mainstay of your business professional wardrobe. A suit with a single-breasted jacket is more formal and more conservative than one with a double-breasted jacket. A double-breasted jacket should always be buttoned. The jacket, skirt and pants shouldn't be mixed with other outfits.
• One- or two-piece dress. Can be worn alone or with a jacket. This look is not as powerful as a suit, though very appropriate in certain situations.

Best Colors For …

Suits, jackets, skirts: 

• Black
• Bright blue
• Navy
• Taupe
• Gray
• Burgundy
• Brown 
• Red (jackets)
• Pastel colors can be appropriate in warm climates, however they often lack power

Blouses: 

• Red
• Turquoise
• Emerald green
• Fuchsia
• White
• Off-white
• Pink
• Burgundy
• Beige
• Tan
• Gray

Dresses: 

• Gray
• Navy
• Burgundy
• Beige
• Camel
• Tan
• Red
• Pink/rose

Shoes:

• Black
• Navy
• Burgundy
• Taupe
• Avoid red,  pink, rose, yellow and white

Scarves: 

• Select colors from the suit or dress to tie the outfit together
  

Best Fabrics For …

Suits, jackets, skirts: 

• Wool/Wool blends — Some wools, such as gabardine, can be worn year-round and are long-lasting. Wrinkles fall out if the garment is hung up overnight.
• Linen — Avoid it, as it wrinkles easily. Can be used if blended with man-made fabrics. Cotton can be effective in warm climates.
• Silk — Be careful, because it can wrinkle and appear too dressy.

Dresses: 

• Silk works best.
• Linen — Avoid it, as it wrinkles easily. Can be used if blended with man-made fabrics.
• Cotton — Avoid it, as it is usually too casual for business wear.
• Rayon (100%) -- Can be effective.

Blouses:

• Silk — Best choice, but it can be expensive to dry clean. Check the label since some silk is now washable.
• Cotton (100%) — Good choice. However, it should be starched and needs to be pressed carefully.
• Polyester should look like a natural fabric. Be careful not to buy any material that has a chemical sheen. Can be either hand or machine washed. Will not wrinkle.

Tips for Accessories:

• Belts -- They should be leather and should coordinate with your shoes.
• Shoes -- Classic leather pumps are the best-selling business shoe. Shoes should be darker than the color of your hemline. Two-inch heels are recommended. Avoid sandals.
• Scarves -- Silk (100%) — It's the only choice. Other fabrics do not knot or tie as well.
• Hosiery -- You can't go wrong with neutral or flesh-toned. Do not wear dark stockings with light shoes.
• Jewelry —14 karat gold, sterling silver or quality costume pieces. Avoid jewelry that dangles or makes noise. Don't overdo your jewelry. Limit rings to one per hand. Wear the best watch you can afford. Pearls add elegance to any business suit.
• Handbag/Briefcase — Leather is preferred. Best colors are: black, brown and burgundy. Women can carry either a hard-sided or a soft-sided briefcase.
• Avoid designer labels on the outside of accessories (or clothing).

Odds & Ends:   
Store your clothes properly. Avoid wire hangers. Hang clothes with one inch of space between garments to allow breathing room. Don't dry-clean your clothes too much. Make sure your undergarments fit properly. Glasses can add credibility to your look. To appear  taller and thinner, wear a solid-color suit. Carry an extra pair of stockings.

What Women Should Have in Their Closets For Professional Look:

• Black or gray suit
• Dark burgundy or navy suit
• Contrasting jacket and skirt
• Two-piece dress
• Several white, off-white blouses
• Solid color blouse; may be pastels
• One pair gold, one pair silver earrings
• Scarves that pick up colors from the suits
• Black pumps; navy or taupe pumps
• Neutral or taupe hosiery
• Black leather handbag
• All weather coat
• Black, brown, or burgundy briefcase

Business Casual Basics
Many companies today have "dress-down" and business casual days. As an outside professional visiting the firm, this does not necessarily apply to you. Unless you are requested to wear business casual attire, come dressed professionally. You are representing yourself as well as your company.

Business casual clothing can be broken down into two primary areas – "Classic Casual" and "Smart Casual." Classic Casual is a step down from "business professional;" the clothing is still structured. 

 Acceptable Classic Casual 

• Sweaters
• Jackets
• Shells and blouses
• Skirts
• Slacks 
• Stockings
• Closed-toe shoes

"Smart Casual" is a step down from Classic Casual, where the jacket is gone and fabrics can be softer and less structured. 

 Acceptable Smart Casual  

• Long skirts and slacks
• Boots
• Stockings and closed-toe shoes
• Collared golf shirts
• Sweaters and sweater sets
• Some denim (no jeans)
• Avoid sleeveless and low-cut clothing

Appropriate business casual clothing for women typically doesn't include the items listed below, which I refer to as "dress down" or "weekend wear. This may vary, however, based on corporate guidelines, climate and type of job. For off-site meetings and "resortware," the guidelines are more relaxed. Always remember, however, it's still business.

• T-shirts
• Jeans
• Sandals
• Sneakers
• Sleeveless tops
• Shorts
• Torn clothing of any type
• Sun dresses
• Leggings or other tights
• Sweatpants
• Sweatshirts
• Cropped clothing
• Anything showing too much skin

Before You Buy …
Before you make a purchase, ask yourself these six questions. If you are in doubt, don't buy the item. You want to buy clothes that look good and feel good on.

1) Does the garment fit? Check to see if it's too tight or too large. Don't buy "your size." Buy the size that fits.
2) Can you sit down and not have the buttons pull in front?
3) Did you use a three-way mirror to check front, back and side views?
4) Will you be able to wear the garment often?
5) Does it complete your wardrobe?
6) Does the garment look good?


Article copyright 2005 Marjorie Brody and Brody Communications Ltd. Marjorie Brody, CSP, CMC, PCC, is an internationally recognized speaker, and coach to Fortune 1,000 executives. She connects people to their potential by strengthening their communication and professionalism.

Marjorie is author of more than a dozen career-related books, including her newest Career MAGIC: A Woman's Guide to Reward & Recognition, and Speaking is an Audience-Centered Sport, and co-author of the award-winning book Help! Was that a Career Limiting Move? She is a recognized media expert whose commentary on workplace/career issues is regularly featured on TV and radio shows, and in newspapers and magazines.


To contact Marjorie or book her as a speaker, trainer or coach, call 800-726-7936, or visit www.MarjorieBrody.com for more information.